Garlic
January: Do not grow.
February: Do not grow.
March: Do not grow.
April: Do not grow.
May: Do not grow.
June: Do not grow.
July: Do not grow.
August: Start undercover in seed trays.
September: Transplant 4-6 week old seedlings.
October: Plant seed directly into garden.
November: Plant seed directly into garden.
December: Plant seed directly into garden.
Space Plants: 15cm (6") apart.
Harvest In: 8-10 months.
Grows Best With: Carrots, Parsnips, Potatoes, Tomatillos, Tomatoes.
Avoid Growing With: Asparagus, Green Beans, Peas.
Planting Garlic
Garlic should be grown from cloves rather than seed, as growing from seed takes twice as long. Garlic will grow best if allowed to experience a "dormant" period of cold weather, and should be planted 6-8 weeks before your first frost date. Mix manure and/or compost into your soil a week before planting, especially if soil quality is poor. Plant cloves upright (with the root side facing down) 5cm (2") deep, 15cm (6") apart with 30cm (12") between rows. Garlic prefers well-draining soil rich in organic matter, and needs full sun.
There are two main varieties of garlic to choose from; hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic has a firm stem and produces fewer (but larger) cloves, but can handle colder temperatures. Softneck garlic has a softer stem, produces more cloves, and is tolerant of warmer temperatures. Be sure to choose the variety best suited for your climate region.
Growing Garlic
If your garden will freeze during the cold weather period, cover the garlic with 15cm (6") of mulch (preferably leaf or straw mulch) to regulate the temperature, and remove once the threat of frost has passed. For areas that don't experience frost, 5cm (2") of mulch will suffice. Garlic doesn't need to be watered during the dormancy period in areas with frost (or temperatures below 0°C (32°F), however be sure to keep the soil moist but not wet during the rest of the growing period. At the first sign of yellowing foliage, cease watering to give bulbs time to dry before harvesting.
2 weeks after the last frost date, fertilise with a balanced fertiliser. A month after that, fertilise again, this time with a low-nitrogen fertiliser to help with bulb growth. Repeat this the following month.
Hardneck garlic produces garlic "scapes"; strong flower stems that are usually curled when young. These should be harvested by cutting them off, to help the garlic focus on bulb growth, and can be used in cooking.
Harvesting Garlic
Garlic is ready for harvest once the foliage is yellowing and falling over, but not yet completely dry. Harvest a single bulb first to check before harvesting the entire crop. Carefully dig up bulbs with a garden fork, making sure not to pierce the skin, and brush off any excess soil. After harvesting, allow the garlic bulbs to cure in a warm area for 2-4 weeks. Once the skin is papery and roots are dry it is ready for storage; brush off any remaining soil, trim the roots to 0.5cm (1/4"), and trim the tops to 2cm (1"). Garlic bulbs should be stored in a cool, dry area.
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If I forget to plant garlic in the fall in Feb I take separated from bulb cloves and
refridgerate them for a good month or so and then plant outside in early spring and get a decent crop that way
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